Cardellini Products - OCHL Instruction

Cardellini Head-Lock

for Oconnor Heads

Installation: To mount the Cardellini Head-Lock on your OConnor head, remove the 3/8” bolt from the center of the Head-Lock with the hex wrench provided. Then separate the locking unit from the base plate, noting how the round bolt head on the base of the locking unit fits into the hole provided on the bottom of the base plate. Using the four 1/4” bolts and a 3/16” hex wrench, bolt the base plate to the bottom of the head. Then, being careful to line up the before-mentioned bolt head and hole, fit the locking unit to the base plate. Reinstall the 3/8” bolt and tighten it with the hex wrench.

Mounting head on Mitchell mount: Pass the center locking unit of the Head-Lock through the center hole of the Mitchell mount. Align the key with the keyway. Turn the knob clockwise until the three jaws contact the Mitchell mount. Make the knob good and snug so it doesn’t vibrate loose during use.

Safety Catch: For extra security, one of the three jaws on your Head-Lock has a ball plunger pressed into it, so the Head-Lock could never vibrate loose and the head fall off of its mount. When you are loosening the knob and retracting the jaws, you will feel resistance when the ball plunger reaches the center hub. Continuing to turn the knob will overcome this resistance, and the jaws will retract into the hub.

Lubrication: Under normal working conditions, lubrication of the Head-Lock should rarely be necessary. There are two groups of moving parts:

1. The jaws and their associated parts are nickel plated and their surfaces work well against each other. To help them work smoothly, I have sprayed them with a dry film lubricant containing graphite and molybdenum disulfide. Contaminants will not stick to this lubricant. If you want at some point in time to re-treat these surfaces, you can do that without disassembling the locking unit of the Head-Lock. By removing the 3/8” bolt and separating the locking unit from the base plate you will reveal three threaded holes in the hub of the locking unit. One has a #10-24 socket head cap screw in it that you will need to remove. These three threaded holes go all the way through the hub to the parts that drive the jaws. Using a spray can that has a plastic tube attached to the nozzle, put the tube all the way into the hole and give it one quick shot of lubricant. Do this in each hole and then rotate the knob to spread the lubricant. Replace the cap screw in the hole furthest from center. Be sure this screw head seats in the corresponding hole in the bottom of the base plate when you reattach the locking unit.

2. Below the head of the 3/8” mounting bolt, behind the rubber seal, is a thrust bearing that is packed with light-weight grease. If this area gets contaminated, for example if the Head-Lock is submerged in water, the area will need to be cleaned and the bearing re-greased. To access the bearing, remove the retaining ring and rubber seal.

Disassembly: Separate the locking unit from the base plate by removing the 3/8” center bolt. To disassemble the locking unit you must first loosen the set screw that is set into the 1/4” hole in the side of the hub, between two of the jaws. Using a 7/64” hex wrench, back out the set screw until the head is flush with the surface of the hub. Now you can separate the knob and jaws from the hub. When removing the jaws make note of which jaw is in which groove of the hub. To reassemble: 1) replace the knob and jaws being sure to put the jaws back in the grooves they came from. 2) Align the bolt head on the base of the locking unit with the hole in the bottom of the base plate and reattach these parts using the 3/8” bolt. Tighten this bolt before tightening the set screw. 3) Tighten the set screw.

If you have any questions or feedback about the Head-Lock please phone me at (415) 924-0294. –Steve Cardellini